Sara Jay Where Do You Live

Latin America - Summary

For the two that follow, but still may have struggled to find my way geographically from time to time, here's all my travels during the 100 days through a tiny part of Latin America ...

Arrival in Buenos Aires, then down to Ushuaia. After a stopover in Bariloche, I go to Salta where I took a plane to Peru (Lima). At the end of my trip back from Chile (Santiago) to Buenos Aires and then leaving for France.

Arrive in Lima from Argentina. Several expeditions since then flight Lima to Cusco. After an extensive discovery Area, we return to Bolivia on Lake Titicaca.

From Lake Titicaca, we reach La Paz which is the hub of our stay on the altiplano. After a flight to Sucre, we headed south to meet Chile in San Pedro de Atacama.

From San Pedro, we go down to Valparaiso. After a stay on Easter Island and Santiago, I take a plane to Buenos Aires.

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Wednesday, June 15 - Last day

Rain joined me in Buenos Aires. I find myself in the same position as Nadège: no desire to do much about things ... There were neighborhoods I wanted to visit. But time does not inspire me. That is still a good excuse to return to this city that I love. It is also an excuse to wander aimlessly in the shopping streets and do my last minute shopping before my return.
I realize the rich culture of Argentina with hindsight. Whether in books or music, it is far from the soup business in Peru and Bolivia or Chile rigorously standardized. I take this opportunity to inform me more about the tango that I have neglected so far. Late this interest is due to a meeting that opened my eyes. You should know that from Bolivia, I have to wear every movement of my business hat Al Capone-style-that I bought in La Paz because it represents well the Bolivian peasants of the altiplano. When I arrived in Buenos Aires, I had the chance to meet someone I immediately said, "You're French!". "Why?" I asked him. "Because there is that the French love to tango like Carlos Gardel! Did not quite understand the meaning of his words, I peel it took the guides to find out who it was Carlos Gardel. This is not least that the legend of the tango. Whoever wrote the greatest pages. Author and interpreter, "porteños" (the name given people of Buenos Aires) is of French origin: everything is explained! While walking through the shops and cafes, I found photos of him: he wears the same hat as me! Full circle: my hat is worn as La Paz to Buenos Aires. But it is interpreted differently! A final word on
Boca. The television news spoke only of this match and the scandal it created. You should know that even the Argentines are outraged by what happened. I had not seen but the coach of Boca had spit on a Mexican player! There were also songs like "son of Mexican p. .." I was not very understood. In short, the Argentines are quite annoyed because they lost their credibility to hold meetings and tournaments internationals. Personally, I found the police presence very low compared to what we see in Europe. When you know that Boca fans are much worse than those of Marseilles (and that's saying something!), Maybe all this should change.
A final word political. Act "impunity" is declared "unconstitutional." Without going into detail, the crimes committed during the military dictatorship had never been tried and could not be prosecuted. Many people disappeared under these schemes and there was no way to investigate this matter. The "Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo" will meet once a week to demand justice and an explanation for their son missing for 30 years. I saw one of them on television to express his relief. His 30 years of perseverance have paid off. For more details, I refer you to the World article dated June 14
As I fly tomorrow, wait no more news from me. Unless I miss ... At this point, I wanted to tell you a secret. Yes! To you unknown readers of all stripes! Who are you? How are you? I would so love to know who you are! It is the only flaw of this blog: I can not really know who reads me. So if you want to please me, please come! Just drop a cuckoo with your name. That would make me extremely happy! And if you have any criticism, I gladly accept all! Both good and bad. Particularly bad because they help to grow! And know that I do not want you. So go ahead! I thank you in advance and thank particulary those who have already had the courage to leave a comment to make my stories come alive. I can not wait to return to Europe and all you find (even at work!). See you soon and thank you your attention!

A utlime parrilla before returning. With the Argentine wine, these are the two things that really going to miss me when I return ...

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Tuesday, June 14 - Football and tragedy

Football is a matter of heart. "Una sola passion Boca" (One love, Boca) can be read on the bonnets of some supporters. In South America more than elsewhere, it vibrates and I live for this sport.
Boca Junior is an iconic team throughout Latin America. The club, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, is somewhat similar to Real Madrid in its reach beyond the national framework. The tee-shirt and yellow team is supported by many young people in Peru and Bolivia for example. Sociologically, it is inconceivable to say having visited South America without at least having attended a football game! Luckily, Boca plays an important game tonight against a Mexican team (the "Chivas" of Guadalajara). This is a game equivalent to a quarter-final second leg of our Champions League (European Cup of Clubs for the uneducated that I willingly forgive). You should know that Boca has been severely corrected in the first leg in Mexico suffering a heavy defeat (4-0). His chances of qualification are slim.
Despite this, in my arivée there, I discovered that all the seats are already sold! My first adventure is to strike and bargain tickets on the black market. I admit I had trouble because the Argentines are very proud and not necessarily in the way diplomats to discuss. If we offer a very low price for trying to "split the two" later, the seller in a hurry to upset and turned on his heel. By dint of trial and error and many failures, I achieved my purpose, however. My discovery of Turbulence continues when I start to queue to enter the stadium. About three quarter hours during which the progress is slow and the crowd was so compact sometimes violent. All only to find before the porch that I was wrong input. For safety, I took a seat numbered set quite high. I was told to be wary of fans who are in the pit because it can be dangerous. Finally, they are not as bad as I stood in line all along with them, learning to shift some of their songs and a lot of insults aimed at their opponents and the police! With all these mishaps, I can just kick off ...
The stadium is blue and it never stops singing. And always different songs that everyone knows by heart! Anecdotally, one of groups of supporters called "Boulogne." As for Paris Saint Germain, one of the stands on a street called "Boulogne." And as for PSG, it is the most violent and most virulent wiggle it, stuck against the fence ...
The match is one way: Boca attack all the time and the Mexicans are content to defend. But this year, Boca crisis. It piétinne in the league and, given its rout in the first leg, is already virtually eliminated the "Copa Libertadores" (name of the "Champions League of Latin American countries). And the crisis continues tonight: Boca plays well but does not mark. The public, it does not stop not sing. Minutes to go sterile and fans are always trying to shout loudly. The tension was palpable on the ground. Boca feels that any escapes. Despite the cold and wind, all heads are hot, two expulsions, throwing objects to the Mexican goalkeeper and a supporter who managed to enter the field. Many incidents that push the referee to end the game before its conclusion. A very dull out for the team's most successful on the continent ...
A tragedy that is bound and the dreams that break ... Football is the theater of the people. And every nation has its share of dreams. It's the same in Chile, "a hacer historia Vinimos" (We have come to write the story). The captain of the team under 20 years of Chile's impressive result was speaking Chileans against Honduras (7-0) at the World Cup in less than twenty years, which takes place in Holland. For three days, all newspapers have their one on this result. Everything became legend. The Chilean already saw the big picture. Yesterday evening, the same training lost 7-0 to the English. Rise and Fall ... Where we go from dream to tragedy in three days: it's soccer in Latin America in all its splendor.

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Tuesday, June 14 - Back in BA

The snow is still blocking the road to Mendoza. Too bad, I do not see not the city. It is time to implement Plan B: take the plane. It was not in my budget. But the important thing is. And here I am back to my starting point: Buenos Aires ... With a little more confidence in this city and with these people I got to know. It is better than Santiago and not displease me.
Message to Nadège: I can not write you because my personal mail is down for maintenance ... I'll try to post a message early tomorrow morning. For now, I must hurry because I may have the opportunity to attend a match of Boca! For those who know nothing about football, I'll try to explain this later ...

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Monday, June 13 - False start

I still have a few days before my return to France. Today I had to take a bus to Argentina to begin my return to Buenos Aires where I take my plane. Unfortunately, for several days, the road connecting Santiago to Mendoza is blocked by snow. It is a road that crosses the Andes, passing near the Aconcagua, which is not less than the highest mountain in the Americas.
Never mind: the fate keeps me one more day alongside Nadège. So all is well! I'm not going to Santiago. I started to explore new neighborhoods but nothing too interesting. The weather is always gray and it rains occasionally. We can not say it's gratifying ...

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Sunday, June 12 - Santiago, Chile

The sky is low and it's cold. A light mist covers the city. You can barely see the snow-capped Andes in the distance. Santiago has charming neighborhoods and has everything a modern metropolis. Its rich history and culture is not extraordinary. We still spend an exciting day to explore its different neighborhoods, from a wide avenue in a park, a small cobbled street in a market place. But admittedly, we've been around it all in one day and this more than enough ...

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Saturday, June 11 - Rude return

Farewell to the island are a bit painful to me. Despite its small size, the island is full of surprises and I feel not to have explored all its nooks and crannies. And it is also the feeling of "end of the holiday" that grabbed me. We leave the point as "exotic" and begin our journey-of-fact our return to Europe (in less than a week, we should be back ...). The shock was intense when we arrive in Santiago. Here, let it snow! The surrounding mountains are covered with snow and the temperature difference with the Easter Island is unbearable. But we'll do it. Tomorrow we will visit Santiago with great curiosity and will try to defy the gossips who think that there is nothing interresting here!

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June 6 to 10 - Isla de Pascua

I will not go into details of our exploration of Easter Island or in its accurate description. I'm just trying to emphasize the point that I think is more important to our stay on the island: the atmosphere "vacancy". Where it is about fun ...
This sensation has many facets. First, the geography of the place. We're just on the point farthest from any other land in the world! The nearest island, Pitcairn, is 2000 kilometers! Thus, it is easy to watch the horizon and indulge in reveries about the infinite ocean. We're on a tiny pebble and there is nothing to thousands of miles around ... On the island resident
3500 residents and a handful of tourists. Although the island tour is little more than 50 kilometers, you find yourself easily and quickly alone. We then experience a solitude that turns into a full-filled meditation finally alone, truly alone. Facing the sea, facing yourself ...
The atmosphere is fresh and everything is competing. Time is difficult to explain but one thing is certain: we never cold! The pictures we have of Easter Island are those of a ile arid climate hostile. Yes, there are always lots of wind. Yes, there is not a lot of trees. Yes, the blue sky is quite rare. Yes, it rains even violently from time to time. But despite all this, there is always a good day and night and the constant humidity that we persevons is never stuffy. In short, despite its aggressive stance, the climate is always sweet!
the Easter Islanders also greatly involved in bringing us this good life. Always smiling, always helpful and exemplary hospitality, the natives of the island know that tourists are their main manna and it sounds correct.
For those who have no idea of the appearance of the island Easter, imagine Scotland ... The landscape consists mainly of volcanic hills in the grass. The ribs are of volcanic rocks can be transformed into spectacular cliffs and deep over 200 feet. To add an exotic touch, the Easter Islanders have re-introduced the palm tree on the island. They are found primarily in the unique village of the island, Hanga Roa. There are also two beautiful sandy beaches that offer perfect swimming in rolls very amusing. Again, appearances are deceiving. The ocean seems violent and cold. Well no! The wimp that I am there is bathed with a lot of fun ...
For now, my description is not very original, although it is attractive. In all these ingredients must be added the main: the mystery.
Everything on this island is a mystery. Why and how people in the fifth century, left the Marquesas islands (over 4000 miles away!) And settled on Easter Island? How to explain the work the Titan of the Easter Islanders who, until about the sixteenth century, have cut and transported nearly 800 stone statues? Each weighs several tons. They are found throughout the island. The task is beyond comprehension and questioning is the same before each statue met: why? And why have all suddenly knocked to the ground? What event prompted the islanders to change their habits very quickly as to destroy what they created? Researchers have shown that the vegetation of Easter Island was similar to that encountered on islands like Tahiti. How is it that the island now resembles more to the island of Shetland in its Polynesian sisters?
The mysteries are everywhere. The unresolved puzzles abound. At each bend in the road, the island is adorned with this mysterious aura. Between a statue and the sea, between a volcano and the sky, it casts a spell. It carries. Much further. Ever Later in the imagination and dreams ...

The white eye of the statue is the main function of the latter: to monitor and protect the village that faces him.

environment suitable for meditation ...

We do not always know the reason that drove the islanders to reverse all the statues.

On the place of manufacture of statues, many were still waiting to be transported to their final destination when the cult of the latter has mysteriously and suddenly stopped.

These are the archaeologists who helped crane statues recovered and restored sites.

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Sunday, June 5 - Flight to Easter Island

A day of transition during which we spend a few hours very enjoyable to Valparaiso before we travel by bus to the airport in Santiago, Chile. After about five hours, we arrived in the evening on this island as desired. The first impression is a holiday, the "real": after the freshness of Santiago, we are seized by the temperature prevailing on the island. Despite a strong wind, we're not cold and comfortable with a simple T-shirt. The atmosphere is humid and the rain does not take long to welcome us. Despite this, it feels good and people all seem very friendly.

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Saturday, June 4 - Strolling in Valparaiso

We spend another day walking through Valparaiso. Unlike yesterday, the sun is shining and the sky clear blue. It's a beautiful day to take another eyeful. All these brightly colored houses, all these little narrow streets, all these perspectives on the Bay of Valparaiso and its surrounding mountains are all calls to poetry and dream. It's not for nothing that this was the preferred location of the famous poet Chilean Pablo Neruda.
We do some shopping to prepare for our departure. And yes: we leave Chile, but remain in Chile. Where are we going? On Easter Island! Certainly it is a little crazy. But it would be a shame to miss this opportunity. I think we will not anytime soon in South America and that we will never travel the world specifically to go on this island. All the backpackers that we met during our trip unanimously praised the island. We will verify this by ourselves. Our news are likely to be more sporadic as we will be in the middle Pacific Ocean on a tiny island. This will be an opportunity to (re) install a few days before starting to think of returning to Europe. We will leave Sunday and return the following Saturday. In the event of radio silence, thank you for your indulgence during this short week!

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Friday, June 3 - Valparaiso

Both say right now: Valparaiso, love. I'm not going to be very objective in my description of the premises. Our arrival was very early morning as we took a night bus. A mild sun begins to warm the city peacefully asleep again when we land in "Valpo", as they say here. Valparaiso is a port in the past glorieux.Il was long a leading stop "warm" for sailors who passed Cape Horn and up the Pacific coast. When the Panama Canal has made this route obsolete (circa 1920 I think), the town was asleep and gradually lost its political and economic dynamism for the benefit of its neighbor in the foothills of Santiago. Today, Valparaiso is a quiet port town looking for a second wind. Cultural activity is very intense.
Valparaiso has a spirit that makes it unique. Geographically, the city's configuration resembles that of Nice: multiple valleys abruptly plunge into the sea clinging to homes they are often made of wood and are all different colors. Some streets are veritable rainbow of colors, a bit like I imagine the images of Ireland, but with more sunshine. Everything inspires calm and the stairs steep and deserted cats and dogs basking in the sun or the view of the bay so soothing. We walk with eyes that shine walking one surprise. We never get tired of getting lost in a small cobbled street or in a noisy main avenue. The dilapidated buildings rub shoulders small houses newly painted scarlet. We feel that people love their city and want to make their environment more friendly. But all this requires money and the local economy seems barely begin to redevelop. One thing is sure: Valparaiso is beautiful and will be even better tomorrow.

Valparaiso is a city that oscillates between the corners sordid and colorful surprises.

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Thursday, June 2 - Seaside

The center of La Serena is not exactly on the edge of the ocean, we had not had occasion to contemplate. Today, the sun finally makes a timid appears. After a well deserved sleep after our long day in the starry night, we walk along the Pacific Ocean. The coast of Serena looks just like all these seaside tourist: long avenues and buildings resort. Except that it is winter. So everything is desert. The sandy beaches are empty. The avenue that borders the ocean has no cars. Only a few pedestrians strolling along the ocean arm in arm. We are one of them. A "empanadas" (a kind of boot) with seafood in it, a mirror by then and the day runs smoothly.
Tonight we're off to Valparaiso, a port further south and close to Santiago.

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Wednesday 1st June - Sun, Pisco and stars

For those who do not, we're still in Chile. My comment yesterday was just over the situation we had experienced the previous weeks in Bolivia. We decided reluctantly leaving the country because of the instability that prevailed there. Current events unfortunately we confirm our choice: http://www.lemonde.fr/web/article/0 0.1-0 @ @ 51-643387.0 2-3222,36-656759. html
Aujourd ' Today was a long day in Chile (for those who do not always ...). We go up the valley of the Elqui and finally leave the low clouds that cling to the coast. Unlike the rest of the region, here, the interior is not completely barren. Special climatic conditions and proximity to a river valley give this providential virtues of agricultural first order. It succeeds notament to cultivate fruit commonly found in tropical areas such as papaya or "chilimoya" (I pronounce the English but the real spelling is "cherimoya"). As and when we ride along the Elqui Valley, the vegetation changes gradually to become the Mediterranean type. It meets mainly vines used in the manufacture of alcohol: the Pisco. For those who follow and really remember our adventures, we have already visited a port city called Pisco in Peru and who boasted of producing alcohol of the same style based on the distillation of grapes. Well, historically, it is the same! At the time of the English colonies, only the port of Pisco in Peru was entitled to export the alcohol produced in the region of the Elqui. Commercially, this alcohol has taken the name of Pisco. When Chile gained its independence, it continued to sell liquor under that name. Peruvians, so clever, have muddied the waters by creating from scratch a similar alcohol in the region of Pisco. Thus there are two Pisco: one in Peru and one in Chile. Chileans to péreniser name, even renamed a village in "Pisco Elqui-" to make all this clearer ... You me follow? Good. You follow me even less when you get to your third glass tasting "Pisco Sour", the lighthouse cocktail made of Pisco: Pisco 3 doses, 1 dose of lemon juice, sugar and ice ...
The lunch takes place in a restaurant atypical since it works only on solar energy. The Elqui Valley is known for its almost constant sunshine: over three hundred days of sunshine per year. The restaurant does not close often. For the curious, the cooking of each dish is made in a solar oven with individual mirrors that concentrates the rays of the sun at its center. Thus, before the restaurant are placed twenty of these ovens, for each dish: bread, soup or chicken. Admittedly, the cooking is slow but everything is hot and very good at the plate!
Over Mountains OVERLOOKING Elqui Valley grows a variety of cactus funny: telescopes. Climatic conditions and air quality are among the best in the world for stargazing. The European and U.S. scientists have built several telescopes in the region to look deeper into the universe and time. The town of Vicuña had the smart idea to share this fever scientific ordinary building a super telescope "semi-amateur" with cupola and everything else. We therefore remain in the evening to enjoy this opportunitie. The tour is very educational and plunges us into the infinity of the universe. Our guide shows a dot in the sky. For us, a single star. But the same "star" seen in the telescope is actually a star cluster. And each of these-is-called "stars" is still a group of stars! And each is a galaxy. Ie a group of solar systems like ours. In short, there are millions and it makes your head spin! We are really tiny. Less than a grain of sand in the middle of the universe ... So, we look at the night sky with a different perspective: that of humility. To the pure enthusiasts (I've been thinking about you Francois-Xavier!) and to give you an idea of the power of the telescope, we could see Jupiter as a big ball with his face and his SAT. Here, I leave you dreaming of the infinite and the universe still expanding. Finally, I'll take another Pisco Sour. Cheers! The universe and its creator! Hips.